I'll post the info i just sent today....fire away....
Regarding feeding, i sent to SlickDonkey:
Hikari Mysis, feed only 1 whole mysis at a time for now, and see how it reacts. DO NOT PUSH IT DOWN its mouth...or force feed it. If it doesn't stick, stop feeding and just wait.
Best,
Ilham
Regarding why QT'ing an anemone is not the way to go...IMO...sent to SlickDonkey:
Hi Brian.
IME/IMO, rose anemones can live forever under your 2x65W lighting (given it not all by actinics). I have some under 1x55W PC that all thrive, but they are all very close to the water, about 3-4" from the water surface of the water.
Lighting has nothing to do with the QT process. Even adding the anemone directly from this 'process' to your main tank can kill it, since I believe you have halides under the main tank (if of course, there is no 'ease in' period).
THerefore, a number of things can affect and damage rose anemones and other anemones negatively. When you do move this anemone to your main tank, I'm guessing you will adjust the light as appropriate for it until it adjusts to the metal halide again.
The usual QT consists of really 'new' or 'relatively new' water. IMO, your tank is definitely young, much too young for anemone. Just my opinion of course, and as such, i wouldn't have placed an anemone in it until at least 5-6 months. However, again, not a lot of people take this the right way. It is hard to make a lot of people happy, since there are always those that think you're wrong, and some that agree with you (or me in this case).
So in this case, the newer water (which still may be caustic from the newly mixed salt) will damage the anemone further. There is no need to expose a 'healthy' anemone (the term healthy is subjective for all of us, and i'll talk about that in a little bit) to an environment that will decrease its health.
Ok, 'healthy'. What I mean by this is the homework you do at the petstore/or whatever place you get the anemone from. Foot not torn, never buy an anemone deflated, never buy an anemone that is floating around in a tank......never buy one with an open mouth...and not buy one that is bleached or severely bleached. Those are just the basics, and if all those are in check, then subjectively, one can say the anemone that was just purchased is deemed 'healthy'. Do we know for sure, of course not, but with the data in the hobby, those are the cues to look for in picking up an anemone.
It is always assumed that someone 'getting' an anemone is getting a 'healthy one'. In this case, why QT? If it is not healthy, why buy it in the first place? (again I'm not really concerned whether people agree with me or not, as i'm sure some do, and some don't, and some have their own views).
Then again, there are some of us, like me, who start up tanks 'just' for anemones. In this case, aging the tank and placing the anemone first maybe what you can 'call' QT'ing the anemone. This, however, isn't done for at least 3-4 months, and preferably 6+months. One thing that has been experimented with is "dipping" anemones. Slightly damaged anemones may benefit from dipping or short bath, but not an actual QT where meds are used and administered. In doing tanks as these, the system to be are fishless and invertebrate less, other than the anemone itself, and sand, live rocks, or the like. In this case, if you are worried about ICH, or other parasites in the water, it will not harm any fish. The system is run fallow of fishes for about 2 months or more and letting the anemone thrive. This should always be the case because clownfishes can wreak havoc to newly arriving anemones, and again this declines the health and general status of the animal.
Let me see if this will go through. It may be too long...but I have other info to add as well probably a bit later....i'm still at work
Best,
Ilham
Best,
Ilham